when the huge bolted doors of Hotel Riad Gyvo swing open to reveal an 18th-century colonnaded patio and the smiling welcome of Guy or Ivo, Belgian art-historian-owners who have lived and researched here for 6 years, you’ll know it was worth it. Follow them up tiered inner balconies to your spacious apartment, with its carefully-chosen furnishings and neat little kitchenette, and you’ll wish you booked for longer. And, bet your bottom dirham, after a drink on the roof terrace contemplating the sandy beach, city ramparts and souks, you will quietly ask them if you might stay an extra night or two…