Fez is the cultural and spiritual centre of Morocco, oldest of the three imperial cities, founded in 790 BC by Moulay Idriss II. The main attraction in this ancient city is the medieval Medina, the old part of the city, which has been continuously inhabited since the 10th century and still bustles with a bewildering throng of colourfully costumed tribal people, from olive-dealers and veiled women on their way to the baths, to industrious merchants and traditional bell-ringing water-sellers.
Attractions: The best vantage point over the ancient walled city, which lies at the eastern end of the plain of Saiss, bordered by the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, is from the ruined Merenid tombs on a hilltop. From here it is possible to view the skyline with its profusion of satellite dishes, and to pick out some of the magnificent palaces, green-roofed holy places and the Karaouine Mosque, all hemmed in by workshops and tenements, souks and squares, and a mass of humanity and the ubiquitous donkeys. Fez is secretive and shadowy, but captivating and colourful at the same time.
Places to visit: The Medina of Fez is the most complete medieval city still in existence, it's preservation having been instigated under French occupation, and it forms a working model of the way life was lived when the world was still young. The more modern part of the city is known as Ville Nouvelle, and has a decidedly French influence.
A guided tour is the easiest way to tackle the buzzing hive that is traditional Fez, but the brave can take on the teeming alleyways, too narrow for motor vehicles, risking getting lost and having to haggle with a local to be guided back out. Laden donkeys negotiate the steep cobbled lanes, and the buzz of buying and selling is often interrupted by the urgent cries of mule drivers or deliverymen pushing heavy and ungainly carts that warns shoppers to flatten themselves against the walls or be flattened themselves. A visit to the souks will undoubtedly lead to a stopover at Fez's famous tanneries where one of the oldest arts in Morocco, and the world, is practiced to produce the leather that has been sought after for centuries
Famous Monuments: Karaouine Mosque
Non-Muslims may not enter this huge mosque, in the heart of the Fes El Bali (Medina), which has been a centre of Islamic learning for more than a thousand years, but often the doors stand open and it is certainly worth taking a look inside. The mosque is surrounded by numerous madrasas (Islamic schools), many of which are open to the public. The most famous of these is the Attarin Madrasa, built in the early 14th century, which features a beautiful bronze door and elegant courtyard with some impressive marble, alabaster and cedar wood decoration.
The shrine that houses the remains of the founder of the city of Fez, Moulay Idriss II, is one of the holiest buildings in the city, enclosed in the depths of the old city. Non-Muslims may not enter the imposing building, but it is possible to see inside and glimpse the saint’s tomb, which is the subject of a constant devotional ritual by a group of women who burn candles and incense and make offerings.
Worth a visit....: Morocco is famous for producing high quality soft leather. It is recommended that only those with strong stomachs visit the tanner's quarter, close to the Karaouine Mosque, which despite its odorous reputation has become one of Fez' main attractions. Visitors can ascend to any one of the terraces belonging to the surrounding leather shops that look down on the fascinating tanners' yard, honeycombed with vats of dye and piled with skins, and although there is no need to pay it is expected that you will at least look around the shop afterwards. The reason for the bad smell is chiefly because guano and pigeon droppings are used as part of the curing process.
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